Enkarterri: the undiscovered Basque Country

Welcome to the westernmost and perhaps least known part of Biscay: Las Encartaciones (Enkarterri in the Basque language). Here, the Basque Country reveals itself from a different perspective, far from the bustling seaside. It is a land of deep valleys, mountains, and deeply rooted rural traditions. For the traveler seeking meaning, tranquility, and heritage, Enkarterri is a revelation, the history of which you can discover at the Las Encartaciones Museum in Sopuerta.

Thanks to the efforts of the Enkartur tourism office, the region has managed to preserve its soul while opening its trails to nature and culture enthusiasts. Let's embark together on a total immersion!

Balmaseda: A journey to the origins of Biscay and Basque textiles

The journey begins in Balmaseda, a town that seems frozen in its medieval grandeur. As the first town founded in Biscay, it exudes a distinct atmosphere of rural nobility. Its Old Bridge (Puente Viejo), with its central watchtower, overlooks the Kadagua River. It is a symbol of the hospitality of yesteryear. Strolling through its narrow streets is like stepping back in time to the era when wool and iron merchants were the lifeblood of the town.

Just a short walk from the center, culture takes on a more industrial and textile form with La Encartada Fabrika-Museoa. This is not an ordinary museum, but a former beret and blanket factory that has preserved its entire 19th-century ecosystem. The river's hydraulic power still drives the original belts and looms. It is a poignant testament to the transition from a purely agricultural society to the industrial age, all while maintaining a human and artisanal scale.

A peaceful stop in Lanestosa, one of the smallest towns in the Basque Country

If you're looking for the definition of rural charm, you'll find it in Lanestosa. It's one of the smallest villages in the Basque Country in terms of area, but its character is immense. Nestled in a narrow valley, this village is distinguished by its houses with wide wooden balconies and its perfectly aligned cobbled streets.

Tourism here is about contemplation. Lanestosa is the ideal starting point for exploring the surrounding mountain trails or simply for enjoying the silence, broken only by the sound of cowbells. It's a major cultural stop for understanding the region's civil architecture and the importance of its historic communication routes.

Karrantza: a natural sanctuary between cathedral-like caves and forests

The Karrantza Valley is undoubtedly the most spectacular natural sanctuary in Enkarterri. It is there that nature becomes monumental.

• Located on a mountainside, the Pozalagua Cave is a geological masterpiece. It houses the world's largest concentration of eccentric stalactites. Unlike classic formations, these defy the laws of gravity by growing in all directions, creating incredibly delicate stone lacework.
• The Armañon Natural Park, which Karrantza shares with the neighboring Turtzioz Valley, surrounds the cave and offers a landscape of "lapiaz" (limestone formations sculpted by water) and holm oak forests. It's a paradise for hikers seeking unspoiled nature, far from the beaten track, where you're more likely to encounter sheep than tourists.
• For an ethical approach to nature, discover Karpin Fauna, a A sanctuary for rescued animals. It takes in solitary creatures that can no longer return to the wild. It's a place of education and respect, ideal for understanding the biodiversity that inhabits the Basque mountains. You might even be able to take a guided tour of the site.

The nearby valleys of Artzentales, Turtzioz and Villaverde preserve their rural charm with small neighbourhoods scattered throughout the countryside, where we find a type of farmhouse called a ‘trucense’, native to this area. 

A stroll in the fresh air on the Vía Verde, the old railway

Iron has left its mark, and today it has become a path to freedom. The Vía Verde de los Montes de Hierro (the Green Way of the Iron Mountains) is the longest route of its kind in Biscay. Following the path of the old trains that transported ore from the mines to the coast, this flat and accessible trail passes through tunnels and bucolic landscapes.

This is the perfect example of sustainable tourism : an industrial infrastructure is reused to allow visitors to explore the region on foot or by bicycle, immersing themselves in mining history while enjoying the great outdoors.

When automotive luxury meets stone: the incredible fortress of Loizaga

In the heart of the verdant meadows of Galdames stands an imposing medieval fortress: the Torre Loizaga. While its exterior evokes the lineage wars of the Middle Ages, its interior hides a cultural treasure unique in the world.

The castle houses one of the most comprehensive private Rolls-Royce collections in the world. Seeing these automotive engineering marvels parked beneath centuries-old stone vaults creates a striking contrast. It's an unusual cultural stop that demonstrates how the people of Enkarterri know how to surprise you in the most unexpected places.

The El Pobal steel plant : a sensory immersion in fire and steel

The cultural heritage of Enkarterri is inextricably linked to metalwork. In Muskiz, the Ferreria de El Pobal is a 16th-century mill and forge that comes alive during regular demonstrations. The deep thud of the water hammer and the scent of charcoal transport you to pre-industrial Biscay. It's a vibrant experience that pays tribute to the blacksmiths' expertise, those men who learned to tame iron and water.

At the heart of Enkarterri's working-class roots at the Basque Country Mining Museum

To understand the soul of this region, one must descend (symbolically) into the mine. The Basque Country Mining Museum, located in Gallarta on the edge of a vast open-pit mine, recounts the epic story of iron that transformed the Basque Country. Its culture is deeply social: it explores living conditions, workers' struggles, and the radical transformation of the landscape. It is an essential place to understand the strong and resilient identity of the inhabitants of the Enkarterri.

Enkarterri, a life-size playground

Enkarterri 's geography is an invitation to outdoor activities. Whether you're a seasoned hiker or a casual cyclist, the possibilities are endless. Peaks like Ganekogorta, Pico La Cruz, Balgerri, and Kolitza offer breathtaking panoramas.

To facilitate this exploration, the Enkarterri Bike service is a godsend. It offers bicycle rentals (including electric models, very useful for the local terrain). This allows you to travel between villages via the Vía Verde or rural paths. They encourage slow tourism, taking the time to appreciate each grove and farmhouse (baserri) encountered along the way.

Playa de La Arena, from Punta Lucero to the cliffs of Itsaslur

To end on a high note, head to the coast. Playa de La Arena is the only beach in the area, a vast expanse of sand and dunes where the Barbadun River flows into the Cantabrian Sea. It's an ideal place to relax, surf, and also a starting point for hiking.

Punta Lucera offers breathtaking views of Bilbao 's port, La Arena Beach, and the sea. The cannons, trenches, and underground passages found at its summit belong to the Iron Belt, a major defensive line built during the Spanish Civil War to defend Bilbao.

The Itsaslur trail is a marvel of coastal nature. Built on the cliffs overlooking the Cantabrian Sea, this path follows the old coastal railway line. The green of the meadows blends seamlessly with the deep blue of the sea, and the remains of the structures that once loaded iron directly onto ships can still be seen. It is the enduring union of wild nature and human history.

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